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Contemporary Jewelry Artists and Vintage Dealers Sparkled at TEFAF New York May 14, 2025 (0 comments)

New York, NY--The recently concluded TEFAF New York art, design and antiques fair saw an 11% increase in attendance with a very strong invitation-only opening day. Among the 91 exhibitors were a handful of contemporary high jewelry artists and vintage jewelry dealers. They are as follows:
Anna Hu, the Taiwanese high jewelry artist created an elaborate jewel that was the centerpiece of her booth: "Duo de Serpents Vert et Blanc" (“The Green and White Snake Duo”), a combination ring and bangle consisting of two serpents with their mouths attached to a Ying-Yang tachi made of mother-of-pearl and onyx.
[Duo de Serpents Vert et Blanc by Anna Hu. Photo credit: Anna Hu]
The green serpent bangle is paved with garnets and diamonds and white serpent is paved with diamonds and emeralds with emerald eyes.
[Ana Khouri necklace displayed on parchment paper. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco]
Ana Khouri presented a novel way to display her latest artistic jewels. Each individual piece was placed on a wall in her booth backed by simple sheet of parchment paper. It created a gallery setting for her jewels. Her latest group of jewels focused on raw, organic and somewhat abstract takes based on nature. The gold is roughly textured. In some cases, wood was used for the creations.
[Hemmerle sapphire, aluminum and bronze earrings. Photo by Eva-Maria Vaeth. Photo provided by Hemmerle]
Hemerle brought several new examples of their latest jewels. This included a couple pair of earrings in colorful anodized aluminum. The first pair consists of round floral-inspired purplish anodized aluminum set with 135 sapphires weighing 8.29 carats with bronze stems. The second pair consist of two tanzanite gems each weighing more than 9 carats, set in blackened silver and white gold and attached to three wing-like strands of anodized aluminum in three different shades of blue.
[Lapis lazuli cabochon earrings by SABBA offered by FD Gallery. Photo by Anthony DeMarco]
FD Gallery, owned and operated by Fionna Druckenmiller, featured its collections of vintage and antique high jewels from prestigious houses such as JAR, Cartier and Bulgari. The gallery on Manhattan’s Upper East Side is also the exclusive dealer for SABBA, a high jewelry brand found by French designer, Alessandro Sabbatini. He creates pieces in classic styles using a variety of gemstones in rare cuts and finishes, often set onto titanium.
[An Alexander Calder bangle, circa 1938, offered by Didier Ltd. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco]
Didier and Martine Haspeslagh are owners of the Didier Ltd. London gallery, which specialize in jewels created by 20th and 21st century artists. Among the items in their booth were pieces by Alexander Calder, renowned for his kinetic sculptures and monumental public works. His jewelry pieces are almost always made of common materials such as silver, steel and rock crystal and are roughly handcrafted. This includes a bracelet, circa 1938, made of hammered silver wire with three spiral ornaments that Dider explained takes its inspiration from primitive art forms, which were popular among artists at the time.
TEFAF New York was held May 9 – 13 with an invitation-only preview on May 8.