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FALL FASHION 2012: FIRST LOOK AT THE NEW TRENDS | February 22, 2012 (2 comments)
New York, NY—With Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in the rearview mirror and the fashion pack now jetted off to London for the next round of the fall-winter 2012-2013 ready-to-wear shows, a few trends already have emerged that will require some advance planning at the jewelry counter.
One of the biggest trends seen last week in New York is, put simply, bigger clothes. Shoulders, and especially sleeves, are going to be voluminous come fall, while skirts are generally below the knee and often full. Conversely, for those who prefer not to be swaddled in so much fabric, there are Asian cheongsams and sheaths so fitted (Victoria Beckham comes to mind) that those who wish to wear one in September might want to start dieting now.
Retro influences hark back as far as the 1920s and 1930s with dropped waists and long skirts—or even a bit earlier as Ralph Lauren seems to be as enamored of PBS’ Downton Abbey as anyone--while the plethora of fuller skirts feel just a little 1950s, minus the felt poodle and saddle shoes. Shoes, incidentally, are the new art-to-wear: the footwear-as-sculpture trend started this spring and rages on for fall.
Reem Acra's flapper dress, left, and Ralph Lauren's passion for Downton Abbey is apparent, right. Photos, reemacra.com and fashionista.com.
We’ll be seeing lots of military influences come fall, this time of the dress variety. In the last iteration of the military trend, it was expressed in camouflage and cargo pants; this time it’s more about A Few Good Men than Rambo. It means buttons, pockets, belts, structured jackets, and lots of olive green.
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Tommy Hilfiger's military coat, left, and Victoria Beckham's sleek take on the trend for a dress, right. All photos, unless otherwise indicated, Imaxtree for Marie Claire.
Look for lots of embellishment--embroidery on delicate fabrics, fur trim on sturdier fabrics, and lots of fur, period. Also look for leather, especially metallic leathers. This fall the blanket comes off the bed and becomes a jacket, with lots of Peruvian-style and other hunting-lodge blanket prints. Graphic sweaters go upscale and modern, no longer just for Christmas. Jumpsuits make a comeback, but it’s a trend that always seems to be short-lived, perhaps because real women have to use a restroom on occasion?
Michael Kors gets swaddled in buffalo plaids.
Every season has its requisite animal print, and for fall 2012 we go to the reptile house: snake, lizard, alligator, or any other reptile print will do.
Color-wise, the fall 2012 forecast from the Pantone Institute, the world’s top color cops, is ripe with vivid shades. While there were pops of color on the New York runways (Preen, 3.1 Philip Lim, and Diane von Furstenburg come to mind here), many other designers just ignored the message. Dominant colors there were navy and black worn together (yes, this used to be a fashion faux pas), olive green as befits the military trend, winter white (beware ye sloppy eaters), and any shade of wine from burgundy to merlot to pinot noir to sangria.
Peter Som, left, does big shoulders and a peplum in burgundy, while Marc Jacobs, right, goes black-and-blue in a full-skirted 50's-inspired dress.
Here’s the palette Pantone predicts will be the hot colors for fall: French Roast, which is really more of a dark warm gray than the coffee brown the name implies; Honey Gold, Tangerine Tango (there’s that retro thing again—both of these colors are very reminiscent of the 1970s), Pink Flambe, a cool hued, blue-based pink, Ultramarine Green (retro alert: it's very late-'80s teal), Bright Chartreuse (Narciso Rodriguez seized on this one), Olympian Blue, a ringer for London Blue topaz and seen at Preen; Titanium, a light ash gray, Rhapsody (aka lavender), and Rose Smoke (aka rose quartz.)
Fall's color trend chart from www.pantone.com.
Narciso Rodriguez, left, and 3.1 Philip Lim are paying attention to Pantone's chart. Rodriguez photo, Peter Stigter, thestar.com.
The jewelry to go with it all: Clothes this voluminous are going to drown out dainty, waif-like jewelry, so it’s time to bulk up. For fall’s massive sleeves, a hefty cuff bracelet will stand up to all that fabric. If you’d rather bet on a bangle, make sure it has some substance, or opt for a huge stack of thin wire ones. Rings, too, need to have enough heft to hold their own against a full sleeve or skirt.
Military jackets with all their buttons need an earring that’s structured as well: this season may be the first in a long time there’s been a screaming need for a button earring—a piece of jewelry we haven’t seen in great numbers for a while. But if a button feels too ‘80s, try a hefty diamond stud. If it’s enough for a red carpet gown, surely it’s enough for a jacket full of brass. On the wrist, what better way to go military than a nice big watch?
Just as there are retro influences in clothing, so will there be in jewelry. Fashion and style expert Michael O’Connor says look to the awards shows to see some trends on the horizon, especially the renewed interest in art deco and other vintage stylings, and celebrities like Michelle Williams who turned a diamond necklace into a headband (very ‘20s) and Charlize Theron who pinned a brooch at the hip of a flowing bias-cut gown (very ‘30s). Those languid, slinky, Jazz-Age looks are just begging for a drop earring, and it’s also a good backdrop for a long, swingy necklace in true flapper style. Going back even further on the retro timeline, we’ve been seeing a Victorian, Russian Renaissance, and old Spanish influence for some time in the ornate and oxidized pieces of designers like Arman Sarkisyan and Emily Armenta.
Above: You've gotta love Ralph Lauren: Most designers ignore jewelry on the runways, but he's showing it in a very retro-appropriate way. Will we see a resurgence of brooches? (All Ralph Lauren images: fashionista.com) Below, Emily Armenta's treasures evoke an ancient Spanish galleon, but the necklace-as-headband is very flapperesque, while Arman Sarkisyan's graceful swirls evoke the sensuality of the Art Nouveau era, made modern with oxidation.
Emily Armenta's Spanish-inspired jewelry makes a strong statement.
Arman Sarkisyan's cuff is both retro and bold enough to stand up to big clothes.
Finally, the deep fall palette favored by the American designers is ripe for colored gemstones. For these looks, think about going tone-on-tone rather than a pop of color for fall. Store the turquoise for now and reach for velvety sapphires in steely platinum or oxidized silver, or try rich dark garnet, rubellite, or amethyst, which will look fabulous set in deep yellow high-karat gold. Black diamonds blend well for a muted take on both red and blue stones, and for the daring few who would wear winter white head-to-toe, what else is there but white diamonds and pearls to complete the Snow Goddess ensemble?
Coming soon in The Centurion: the fall fashion trends from London, Milan, and Paris.