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“THE GREAT GATSBY” IS GREAT FOR JEWELRY | May 15, 2013 (0 comments)
Merrick, NY—Baz Luhrmann’s remake of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby is inspiring women everywhere to release their inner flapper. While the film itself has garnered mainly tepid reviews—too much flash, not enough substance, and what’s with the hip-hop soundtrack?—there’s no denying the jewelry is most drool-worthy.
Jewelry designers are offering a wide variety of Gatsby-inspired pieces, while retailers such as Levinson Jewelers in Ft. Lauderdale, FL, are tying into the trend with a special display of Gatsby-esque designs in the store.
The Great Gatsby is set in 1925, at the height of the Roaring Twenties. It was the same year as the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, the famed Parisian exhibition that “officially” launched the Art Deco movement, though the styles and motifs that characterize it were growing popular before the exhibition took place.
Carey Mulligan and Leonardo DiCaprio star as ill-fated lovers Daisy Buchanan and Jay Gatsby in the 2013 remake of The Great Gatsby. Image: Telegraph.co.uk
The sharp, angular, industrial lines of Art Deco were a dramatic departure from the sinuous, organic shapes and nature-inspired themes of the Art Nouveau movement of the late 19th century Belle Epoque, and were entirely dependent on—and worshipful of—the technology that allowed mass production and industrialization. The movement affected the design of everything, from buildings to furniture to cars, to jewelry and apparel.
Gumuchian, New York, offers a selection of Gatsby-inspired jewels. Clockwise from top left: platinum and diamond Bowlero necklace (retail, $70,000) has 14.67 ctw of diamonds; 18k white gold and diamond Carousel necklace (on model) is 37 inches long and has 14.0 ctw. of diamonds (retail, $75,000); platinum, diamond, and sapphire Cotillion ring (retail, $23,000) has 1.42 ctw. of diamonds and a 5.07 ct. sugarloaf sapphire; and 18k white gold and diamond Gallop drop earrings (retail, $16,000) have 3.71 ctw of baguette and princess cut diamonds. In the image, note the geometric lines of the Chrysler Building (left) an iconic symbol of Deco architecture, and the sinuous lines and daring back of the dress. Newly bare fashions were one of the many societal shifts taking place--and causing strife--in the 1920s.
Some art historians date the roots of the trend to 1900, and it certainly shows influences of other modern art movements of the time, including Cubism, Functionalism, Modernism, Constructivism, and even the German Bauhaus. In any case, the style of dress we associate with the Twenties flapper and the style of jewelry we refer to as Art Deco was firmly entrenched by the time of Fitzgerald’s novel.
Levinson Jewelers of Ft. Lauderdale, FL, assembled a collection of Deco-inspired jewelry--much by designer Ivanka Trump--in one of their showcases. Selections are shown above and below. Note the use of both onyx and tassels, common in Deco jewelry.
Deco is by far the most popular and collectible period jewelry. Rare is the “magnificent jewelry” auction without a significant representation of it, and no other period has been more influential in modern bridal jewelry design than Deco. It’s having even more of a moment now, due to popular culture interest the period of history from pre-WWI to pre-WWII.
Here are some more pieces channeling Daisy Buchanan:
Art Deco Bracelet (circa 1925) has a cherry blossom motif in platinum, diamond, and enamel, with buff-top rubies and emeralds. The DeYoung Collection, New York; price on request.
Art Deco clip brooches made by Raymond Yard (circa 1920), in platinum with diamonds and natural pearls. The DeYoung Collection; price on request. Top image: Art Deco necklace, circa 1920, in platinum and diamonds. The DeYoung Collection; price on request.
Left, earrings from Kwiat’s Decades Collection have diamonds (3.57 ctw.), emeralds, and onyx set in platinum. Price on request. Right, pendant from Kwiat’s Deco Collection features 1.99 ctw. of diamonds with black onyx, in 18k white gold. Retail, $6,600.00.
Deco-inspired one-of-a-kind earrings have 1.07 ctw. of double-arrow diamonds and 1.25 ctw. of diamond melee in 18k white gold. Rahaminov Diamond, Los Angeles.
Deco-inspired bracelet has 11 onyx rondelles, 55.63 ctw., 44 baguette diamonds, 3.38 ctw, and 44 Round Diamonds, 0.67 ctw. Retail, $48,000. Oscar Heyman, New York.
Penny Preville’s emerald-cut Art Deco ring (bottom right) was featured in the 10th Anniversary of Vegas magazine, in a feature about Deco/Gatsby-inspired jewelry.