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TRENDSPOTTING: FALL/WINTER 2013-14 RUNWAY REPORT AND WHAT JEWELRY WILL GO WITH IT | March 13, 2013 (0 comments)
Merrick, NY—As the fall/winter ready-to-wear show madness winds down, the general consensus is that the big fashion trends for 2013-2014 are more wearable than memorable.
That’s not necessarily a bad thing. Often it takes a few seasons for a look to catch on, and/or for designers to finally get it right. For example, some of the exaggerated-shoulder coats shown a year or two ago have settled into something that looks strong but not space age. And last year’s eye-popping neon has settled down into bright colors that are cheerful but not blinding.
While next fall seems so far away—we haven’t even put away this winter’s woolies yet—jewelers will very soon be considering product for the fall and holiday selling season, and jewelry manufacturers are already planning their offerings for the upcoming shows.
A few fall apparel trends worth noting will have an impact on jewelry. Black and white continues to be a very strong statement for fall, with the newest iterations being done in houndstooth plaids. Stark Mod and blocked looks continue too, such as those seen at Marc Jacobs in New York.
For fine jewelry, this is a moment to seize. Black and white is one of the most classic, enduring combinations for luxury jewelry, offering the irresistible temptation of something expensive that actually will be in style forever. The look can be done at all price points, of course, whether it’s silver with enamel or black and white diamonds in platinum, making it probably the most versatile trend ever for jewelers who want to sell to women of all ages and budgets.
Traditional houndstooth, above left, at Tommy Hilfiger, and a greatly stylized view at Dior, above right. Below, a black and white classic at Balenciaga, and the trend interpreted in a black and white diamond flower pendants on a faceted diamond necklace at Jenny Perl.
This white gold and diamond necklace by Mimi So has a mod graphic vibe that's right with stark black and white.
Vegans, close your eyes: fall is rife with leather and fur. Whether it’s a whole garment or fabric blocking (like color blocking, only with different fabrics instead of different colors), there will be a lot of luxurious touches with things like fur sleeves (if not the whole top), leather appliqués, and the like. Look for dresses and tops made of leather (even more modern with fur trim), and of course skirts and pants.
Fur-get paring down. This fall is all about luxurious touches like these fur toppers at Marc Jacobs.
And Stevie Nicks will be happy: she first sang of leather and lace in the early 1980s; this fall lace will be as popular as leather and fur. All told, it adds up to a lot of luxury.
Lace at Proenza Schouler (left) and the slim classics at Ferragamo, right. The turtleneck continues to be important next fall; note the use of longer pendant necklaces to accessorize it.
Come fall, necklines go way up, way down, or somewhere in between. The already-strong turtleneck continues for 2013/2014, along with other necklines featuring wrapped and folded fabrics.
The strapless gown remains classic for formal occasions, but the newest way to doll up is with a deep V in front and/or back. Of course, real women in real life aren’t going to wear dresses plunging to the belly button as some runways showed, but the V is important. We saw it coming two years ago with Kate Middleton’s engagement and wedding dresses, and we saw bared backs at this year’s Oscars, complete with a nascent trend toward “backlaces.” (A rose-cut and taviz diamond version from the Haute Couture collection by Etho is shown at the top of this page.)
A deep V at Jil Sander, left, and a more modest daytime version at Reed Krakoff, right. Again, note the continued use of luxe fabrics and leathers and the mid-size bangle at Reed Krakoff. Soft shapes look best with something that's visible but not overpowering.
While it’s too soon (and too impractical) to sell necklaces you can only wear backwards, do look for styles where the clasp is integrated into the overall design so that the piece can be worn backwards. Versatility is a continued key trend in fine jewelry, whether it’s convertible or reversible. Women want more for their money these days and that isn’t going away.
Color-wise, in addition to black and white, look for a continuation of last fall’s popular burgundy shades, morphing slightly into plum for fall/winter 2013-2014. And while emerald green may be the Pantone Color of the Year, fashion designers are seeing the world in a slightly more olive tone—aka loden or army green. With its yellow undertone, it takes gold very well. Winter white also made big news, and it’s a perfect backdrop for any kind of fine jewelry.
Winter white at Reed Krakoff and gray/green at Marni. Marni's strong shoulders and rich fabric need a substantive accessory like the earrings seen on the model. This bold-yet-airy cuff from Elizabeth and James' gold serpentine collection would be good as well.
We’re still seeing some bright colors for fall, and we’re also seeing a mix of patterns. Whatever your mother told you about never wearing two patterned pieces at the same time, forget it. Pattern blocking, in addition to fabric blocking, is the next wave after color blocking.
The neons and exaggerated shoulders of seasons past are toned down into cheerful but not blinding brights, and strong, but not overblown, shapes at Michael Kors, left, and Marc Jacobs, right. A strong earring, like these large gold serpentine drops from Elizabeth and James or these white and colored diamond sliver earrings from Natalie K, will work best with statement pieces like these.
The overall silhouette trend is still for slim-fitting underneath, boxy or sculptured on top like the Michael Kors image above, or classically tailored head-to-toe. Both need jewelry that can stand on its own. Think turtleneck and cigarette pant under a great jacket or coat. Add a nice teardrop earring and a bold bracelet and ring for a timeless yet current appeal.