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A Timely Perspective: Report From The Luxury Watches & Wonders Show In Hong Kong | October 08, 2014 (0 comments)
Hong Kong—Watches & Wonders, the new haute horlogerie exhibition for Asia, was held last week in Hong Kong. On display at the second annual event were luxury timepieces from classic Swiss brands such as IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and more, as well as other top brands from around the world.
Roberta Naas, editor of ATimelyPerspective.com, and writer Isaac Wingold review some of the newest innovations from the show:
IWC’s New (But Unofficial) Women’s Collection
IWC has done something quite unexpected. Schaffhausen’s own has unveiled what is, unofficially, its very first women’s collection: an intriguing and bold move from the dive- and pilot watch dominated brand. Referred to as the Portofino “Midsize,” (left) IWC hopes to broaden its market to those who prefer smaller sizes or more delicate and jewel-adorned designs. With a large number of models within the collection, there will surely be a piece to tickle the fancy of the most discerning of women.
IWC’s Portofino collection has already been wildly successful for the brand. It has long represented an expression of subtle and pure taste, and actually has been popular with both men and women. Through this new collection, the brand will appeal considerably more to women, through the feminine details such as diamond-set bezels, and mother of pearls dials to be offered.
Within the collection, there will be three new 37 mm models offered in 17 different versions. A variant with a moonphase complication will be available, in addition to the standard automatic version, and the stunning Day & Night—a version for the jet setting that incorporates a second time zone complication. All of these will be available in a variety of materials, including white gold, red gold, and stainless steel, with the option of a diamond-set bezel. Santoni, the revered Italian shoemaker, will be providing ultra high quality alligator straps for each piece.
Front and back views of two models from the IWC Portofino Midsize collection.
It's most likely that this introduction is a response to the current market trends, and increasing popularity of women’s watches, but this introduction is also reminiscent of pieces throughout the brand’s history. At the initial introduction of the Portofino collection back in 1984, IWC offered both the standard offering, and a smaller option, coming in at 34mm. As those who collect vintage IWC pieces know, the jeweled variants of several models have always been quite rare, thus increasing the demand for similar pieces.
IWC has for the most part been a brand dominated by rugged, men’s sports watches. The introduction of its first unofficial women’s collection truly represents a sea change for the brand’s way of thinking, and as we’re fast approaching 2015, it’s arguably about time. Hopefully more brands will follow in their footsteps, and introduce women’s collections that are as strong as the Portofino Midsize collection. Well done, IWC! –By Isaac Wingold
Richard Mille’s Phoenix And Dragon-Jackie Chan Watch
Richard Mille stunning new RM 57-1 Phoenix and Dragon-Jackie Chan watch is the embodiment of the world’s ‘Four Supernatural Spirits’. The Phoenix has long been known as the supernatural king of birds, personifying the five virtues of benevolence, righteousness, propriety, wisdom, and sincerity. It is has always appeared in a magical variety; a physical representation of all areas of the universe from the highest heights to the lowest depths. The dragon has long been known as the fierce and strong creature of supernatural tales. It is believed that seeing these two creatures together is symbolic of great fortuitousness and luck. Thus, Richard Mille has released an artfully crafted timepiece featuring these powerful, mythical characters.
The timepiece is meticulously created in 3N rose gold, carved and incised by only the steadiest of hands, using the most specialized tools. This long and grueling process of carving, along with the hand-finished micro painting, results in the most magnificently crafted representation of these divine characters. The remarkable wristwatch — complete with tourbillon escapement — is created in a limited edition of just 15 pieces in either 18k white or red gold. The timepiece features a base plate of PVD treated titanium, a double winding barrel, and a power reserve of 48 hours.—By Roberta Naas
Roger Dubuis’ Hommage Minute Repeater Tourbillon Automatic
Roger Dubuis, the only 100% Poincon de Genève certified manufacture, has just announced its latest haute horology creation, the Hommage Minute Repeater Tourbillon Automatic. As the collection’s name would suggest, this piece is an homage watch, but not in the way it’s often seen within the industry. Roger Dubuis is not only paying tribute to an iconic design, but also they are honoring are historical traditions of watchmaking, and the notable individuals who have helped perpetuate this craft.
The Hommage Minute Repeater Tourbillon showcases just about all of the brand’s horological know-how in a way that is aesthetically audacious, yet refined and sophisticated. Mechanically speaking, this piece is an absolute work of art. As such, the brand has chosen to display the RD104 movement in a semi-skeletonized manner.
So, attributes? The watch features a specially designed minute repeater that improves the overall quality of tone through its use of new materials, and ergonomically designed, rectangular gongs. They’ve also incorporated a flying tourbillon. Being one of the most coveted complications in watchmaking, it’ll be sure to impress collectors with it’s newly improved carriage that ensures optimum accuracy and durability. Roger Dubuis has also developed somewhat of a reputation over the years for offering things in pairs, and they’ve also implemented that school of thinking on this creation. The watch will be automatically wound, by not one, but two pink gold micro-rotors, given a beautiful, hand-finished guilloché texture.
Roger Dubuis, front and back.
Being the only manufacture to be 100% Poincon de Genève certified, Roger Dubuis has taken certain measures to produce watches like this, to the absolute highest standards. This is why, during the 1,241 hours required to manufacture the in-house Calibre RD104, exactly 328 hours are devoted to testing quality, reliability, and meeting the criteria of the Poincon de Genève.
Although the true appeal of a piece such as this is what’s on the inside, Roger Dubuis has done a brilliant job of designing quite the smart looking piece. The case features bold lugs that improve the on-the-wrist comfort, along with a variety of polished and meticulously brushed finishes that are truly stunning. It’s asymmetrically placed, Roman numeral clad, guilloché dial will be traversed by a set of leaf-type hands, which just add to that incredibly refined aesthetic.
With the brand’s 20th anniversary approaching next year, this piece – slated to be in stores in several months — will be produced in a fitting, limited run of just 20 examples. With pieces such as this, Roger Dubuis approaches haute horology in a unique way that allows the brand to harken back to the innovations of past masters, while approaching their designs in a distinct and visionary fashion. This Hommage Minute Repeater Tourbillon Automatic definitely represents an amalgamation of the brand’s mechanical expertise, with signature motifs that excite and challenge our notions regarding design.—By Isaac Wingold
The Montblanc Metamorphosis II
The Watches & Wonders Exhibition unveiled some extreme wonders that had aficionados chomping at the bit. One such timepiece is the all-new Montblanc Metamorphosis II.
The complex watch houses one of the most complicated movements ever developed and designed in Montblanc’s Villeret workshops. The mechanical movement not only consists of a whopping 746 components – each finely finished by hand – but also is protected by several patents. Four years in the research and development, the new watch recalls the original Metamorphosis I that was unveiled to the world in 2010 and first demonstrated the concept of overlaid dials majestically parting like a curtain on a window.
A definitive “wonder,” the Metamorphosis II (below) is true to its name. It transforms in front of your eyes – going from one watch to a totally separate and different watch in the blink of an eye. Intriguingly, not only does the watch aesthetic change as the top dial moves aside for the bottom dial to be displayed, but also the functions of the watch change.
Essentially, two apertures unseen to the eye—and able to part in the middle and move aside like a curtain—grace the watch. One sits at 12:00 and the other at 6:00. The timepiece, in its closed state, offers a stunning classical dial with hours, minutes and date indication. With the push of a control slide on the left side of the case, the complex mechanical system kicks into play – parting the large apertures and transforming the dial into a chronograph with its counting functions. While to the eye it looks as though the apertures are opening, they are in fact partitions that fold in on themselves inside the dial, disappearing to the side.
But the magic isn’t done yet. Not only is a new dial portion revealed by the metamorphosis, but also the lower dial gradually rises via a lifting ramp inside the movement. On the lower portion of the dial, the top date of the classical watch disappears and the chronograph minute counter takes its place. In the upper part of the dial, the classic Roman numeral dime display transforms into an Arabic numeral display with index to ensure readability of the chronograph. The retrograde minute hand retains the same function in both dial versions, butt he central seconds hand of the chronograph dial changes its function to serve as the chronograph second hand. Pressing the pusher that is integrated into the crown activates the chronograph minutes counter. With another push of the control device, the transformation is reversed. Voila! An entire Broadway production has been beautifully orchestrated on the wrist, in just about five seconds per transformation.
In fact, the Metamorphosis was originally inspired by the opening of a theater curtain parting to reveal a stage. And, like any theatrical production, the play is a perfect blend of art, technical prowess emotion. Here, the Metamorphosis is a unique combination of form and function, of aesthetics and mechanics. A dance of 82 mechanical components perfectly choreographed and driven by a separate barrel, comprise the metamorphosis. By combining several rich arts—including chronograph advances and automaton manufacture—found in its more than 156-year heritage at Villeret, Montblanc is able to offer the perfect blend of innovation and tradition – not to mention complicated craftsmanship.
The nearly 800-part handmade, hand-wound, mechanical movement (MB M67.40) essentially consists of a monopusher column wheel chronograph mechanism with horizontal clutch and large balance wheel with Phillips terminal curve hairspring. The main plate and bridges are made of rhodium-plated nickel silver. It beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour and offers 50 hours of power reserve. It should be noted that of the total 746 components, 494 are dedicated to the metamorphosis function.
With such grand mechanics in the movement and the dials, one could easily forget the beauty and finish of the 52mm watch but for the fact that it is a glorious work of art in and of itself. Not only are all of the components hand finished, but also the 18-karat 5N rose gold case is highly polished, and the 18-karat solid gold dial features a variety of meticulous decorations and finishings depending on the dial. The inside portion of each side of the Classical dial features a handcrafted silvered barleycorn “Grain d’orge” guilloche. The emerging chronograph dial is equally as meticulously finished. The Arabic numeral dial features a handcrafted black “Clous de Paris” guilloche decoration for the time indication, with a contrasting silvered spiral guilloché center. The decorative work requires dozens of hours of master artisan time. The watch naturally features a sapphire crystal caseback for viewing the movement.
This extraordinary watch—with patents and unparalleled performance—is part of the Collection Montblanc Villeret 1858, and is being produced in a very limited edition of 18 pieces.
The Metamorphosis II is the result of incredible work on the part of many of the finest artisans the Swiss watch industry has to offer. We here at ATimelyPerspective are thrilled to see the new rendition of this watch and wish we could be one of the lucky 18 destined to own one.
We’ve said it here before, but will reiterate. With Jerome Lambert heading up the brand for the past year and a half, we knew we were destined to see great things from the company. After all, Lambert is a visionary who not only thinks out side the proverbial box, but also takes action. He has clearly perpetuated a message at Montblanc that conveys the brand’s strong Manufacture philosophy, offering master craftsmanship, innovation and excitement. He has done this by raising the profile of both the brand’s Manufacture in Villeret (which has more than 150 years of exceptional watchmaking and movement making expertise) and its Le Locle facility (with its 500 hours testing and more).
Now, we see the first steps of his work in the newest timepieces coming from the brand, and the Montblanc Metamorphosis II is a superb example. Montblanc is also unveiling several other new editions at Watches & Wonders, but that is another story coming soon. Stay tuned.
Meanwhile, view a video on the new piece.—By Roberta Naas