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London, UK--The world of fine jewelry, historically an exclusive realm, is experiencing a shake-up. Traditionally, the sector depended on familial ties to access precious materials and workshops. However, the prohibitive costs and the traditional practice of selling on consignment have made it challenging for independent designers to thrive.

In an interview with Who What Wear, Sally Morrison, PR director for natural diamonds at the De Beers Group, recognizes these barriers. “Historically, it’s been a small and quite closed sector, depending on multigenerational family relationships to get access to materials, workshops, and so on,” Morrison notes. De Beers is pushing boundaries to bring diversity to the forefront. Their initiatives include a "Teen Gems" program and collaborations like #BlackIsBrilliant, pairing designers with celebrity stylists for red-carpet visibility.

The interview noted that a recent collaboration between De Beers and The Surf Lodge marked the Montauk hotel’s 15th anniversary. Jayma Cardoso, the hotel’s founder, spotlighted designs from trailblazers like Lorraine West, Maggi Simpkins and TenThousandThings creators Ron Anderson and David Rees. These designers are at the forefront of industry evolution, promoting diversity.

The interview noted that Anderson and Rees started their journey in 1989 in New York, eventually launching their collection. They highlight the changing dynamics of the fine-jewelry sector, emphasizing the challenges for emerging designers due to rigid retail strategies.

Lorraine West, a Caribbean American, hails from Central Islip. West’s designs reflect her background and the storytelling that inspires her. She acknowledges the importance of community and initiatives like De Beers’ #BlackIsBrilliant.

The interview noted that Maggi Simpkins, a Los Angeles-based designer, began her brand in 2015. She emphasizes the need for diversity in the fine-jewelry community and the crucial role heritage brands like De Beers play in promoting emerging designers.

Learn more in the entire Who What Wear interview.