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Cartier Exhibits 350 Rare Pieces at V&A Museum in First Major UK Showcase in Decades June 26, 2025 (0 comments)
London, UK--A major exhibition of Cartier jewelry is now open at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, featuring over 350 pieces from the brand’s archives and private collections. According to a report by Only Natural Diamonds, the exhibition is Cartier’s first in the UK in over 30 years and features works dating from the early 1900s to the present day.
Curated by Rachel Garrahan and Helen Molesworth, the show includes pieces rarely seen by the public, with a focus on royal commissions, historical context, and Cartier’s evolving design language.
Cartier’s Early Presence in London
Cartier opened its first London store in 1902, the same year King Edward VII was crowned. In 1904, the brand was granted a royal warrant. Jacques Cartier led the London branch, sourcing gemstones and building client relationships across Europe and India. According to the report, this global exposure influenced Cartier’s design direction during the 1920s, incorporating Indian and Egyptian influences into collections such as Tutti Frutti.
Royal Jewelry on Public Display
The exhibition includes several royal pieces, among them the Halo Tiara worn by Princess Kate and the Scroll Tiara worn by Clementine Churchill to Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. Both are part of the Cartier Collection and are rarely shown together.
A key item in the exhibition is the Williamson Diamond Brooch, on loan from King Charles III. According to the report, the pink diamond was gifted to Princess Elizabeth in 1947 and mounted by Cartier in 1953. The exhibit also displays original Cartier design drawings from the Frederick Mew Archive, including the final brooch design approved by the Queen.
Indian Royal Commissions and Restorations
The Maharaja of Patiala’s 1928 commission is a focal point of the show. The Patiala Necklace, originally featuring the 234.65-carat De Beers diamond, is presented alongside a matching choker. Cartier restored both after the original necklace resurfaced in 1998. Per the report, these pieces reflect Cartier’s long-standing commercial and artistic ties with Indian royalty.
Exhibit Design and Thematic Presentation
Architect Asif Khan designed the exhibition’s layout to organize the pieces by theme, including sections on royal jewelry, animal motifs, and archival design. Lighting shifts—from Delhi’s sunset reds to Windsor’s morning blues—highlight the geographical and historical range of the collection. The final room, featuring tiaras, is arranged to evoke the setting of 20th-century Cartier client balls.
Context and Legacy
According to Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s heritage director, the exhibit illustrates how jewelry serves as a record of personal and political identity. Items on display include the Allnatt Diamond Brooch, a 101.29-carat yellow diamond piece, and two diamond bracelets owned by actress Gloria Swanson.
Co-curator Molesworth described the exhibition as a study in “materials, design, and continuity,” with works spanning royal, private, and fashion contexts.
The exhibition is open through November at the V&A Museum’s Sainsbury Gallery in London.
Learn more in this article by Only Natural Diamonds.
[Images via Only Natural Diamond]